The climb is long enough to be challenging without being tiresome, before the scenery changes and a mountain-top plateau opens up.
An hour ago, the valley had looked like a primordial forest from Jurassic Park, now it’s closer to the set of a Spaghetti Western.
A flock of goats at least 200 strong walks right across the road at that moment, shepherded only by a dog.
It appears to be just them, us and the two MGs for miles around.
Valeska and Matthias (right) of Vintage Tours are learned navigators
It’s a winding descent back to reality from here, the roads still enjoyable but gradually becoming less dramatic – though points of human interest such as the Pousada Mosteiro Amares, a sensationally pretty hotel that reportedly serves some of the best wine and food in the area, return to the roadside.
With that, we’ve got to head back to Ponte de Lima, a route that takes in small towns and villages, some that are exceptionally pretty.
It’s the Peneda-Gerês that I’m stuck thinking about for the drive back and indeed for days after.
The main road to and through it is spectacular, almost worth the trip in itself, but what really has me wanting to turn around and head back is a quick look at Google Maps, and seeing just how many small ribbons of Tarmac take off into the mountains around the national park.
This MGA 1600 has a blanking plate in place of the radio
I sampled just one, and it was one of the finest roads I’ve ever driven – for its driver appeal, scenery and surface quality – and I saw just two other cars on it in an hour.
The clear drawback, perhaps the only one, of attempting a road trip in this part of Portugal from a British perspective is, of course, the distance. The Swiss Alps are closer, and so is Scotland.
Valeska and Matthias are keen to help, by providing their cars, which, though the full tours come with their own costs, makes for a genuinely fun solution for those who don’t want to drive all the way down, don’t have their own classic car, or perhaps simply want to try something different.
Self-drive classic-car hire firms are rare on the Continent, especially ones that encourage long, multi-day tours.
The MGA passes the dramatic Miradouro Voltas de São Bento rock formation
But the real takeaway of this trip has to be an appreciation for this often-overlooked part of Europe.
Tourists may swarm to Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve, but it’s places such as Ponte de Lima and the Peneda-Gerês that petrolheads should put on their radar – however they can experience these roads.
This part of Portugal – and indeed sections of Spain just over the border – is a real oasis for great driving.
The distance from Europe’s major automotive tourist hubs is no doubt part of what helps keep that the case.
Cerca de Baixo is yet another picturesque village on the route
As a single route, the best bits don’t last as long as the highlights of Scotland’s NC500, but if you’re willing to explore an area rather than just go from A to B, it has real breadth.
The scenery is beautiful and diverse, and the food’s good, too.
Get a car that suits it, such as an MGA, and it’s certainly one for the bucket list. I know I’ll be coming back.
Images: Max Edleston
Thanks to: Vintage Tours, whose tours of the region start from €2650 (or €2350 in your own classic). Call 0049 170 5746502 or see vintage-tours.com
MGA at 70
The MGA took the best bits of the TD and TF and wrapped them in a new, swoopy body
Although borrowing a fair amount from its TD and TF predecessors underneath, the new 1955 MGA was marketed as a fresh start for Abingdon’s sports cars, finally throwing off the pre-war, separate-winged appearance of the T series.
It proved to be a crucial bridge between the TF and the runaway success of the MGB, achieving strong sales of its own, especially in key foreign markets in the ‘Export or Die’ climate of the 1950s: 101,081 cars were sold in a seven-year run, with just 5% of those remaining in the UK.
The MGA helped to power the Abingdon-based marque into a new era
1955-’59 MGA
Like the MG Magnette saloon, the MGA ditched the old XPAG/XPEG engines for a 1489cc version of BMC’s then-new all-iron, ohv four-cylinder B-series producing 68bhp.
With drum brakes all around, both Coupé and roadster variants were offered, with 58,750 produced in four years.
The MGA Twin Cam increased performance, but it wasn’t without its problems
1958-’60 MGA Twin Cam
Any complaints about output were solved by 1958’s Twin Cam, which, with an alloy, dohc cylinder head and a slight boost in capacity to 1588cc, took power to 108bhp.
Four-wheel Dunlop disc brakes were fitted, too, but the engine was unreliable and created constant warranty claims.
Later versions with lowered compression were better, but the model was pulled after just two years on sale and 2111 built.
The MGA 1600 got more power and torque than its 1500 predecessor
1959-’61 MGA 1600
A more reliable power increase was achieved by using the larger, 1588cc bottom end with the iron, ohv cylinder head, providing 80bhp.
Also fitted with front disc brakes, the refreshed model suited the MG market far better and 31,501 were built in less than three years.
Featuring styling identical to the earlier cars, bar slightly different lighting units and a 1600 badge, they are considered the cognoscenti’s choice by many.
A De Luxe model was also offered, using up leftover racing-style wheels and four-wheel disc brakes from the Twin Cam.
1961-’62 MGA 1600 MkII
Wearing a grille with its bars set back and perpendicular to the road, which some enthusiasts unkindly label ‘pre-crashed’, as well as tail-lights from a Mini, the MkII isn’t considered the best-looking MGA, but it is perhaps the driver’s pick.
Power increased again to 90bhp through a reworked cylinder head and an increase in bore that took capacity to 1622cc, while a longer axle ratio calmed the MGA’s previously frantic cruising manners.
A De Luxe model was also produced, and 8719 MkIIs of all kinds were made before the MGB replaced the model.
Factfile
MGA 1600
- Sold/number built 1958-’60/31,501
- Construction steel chassis, steel and aluminium panels
- Engine all-iron, ohv 1588cc ‘four’, twin SU carburettors
- Max power 80bhp @ 5600rpm
- Max torque 87lb ft @ 3800rpm
- Transmission four-speed manual, RWD
- Suspension: front independent, by wishbones, coil springs rear live axle, semi-elliptic leaf springs; lever-arm dampers f/r
- Steering rack and pinion
- Brakes discs front, drums rear
- Length 13ft (3962mm)
- Width 4ft 10in (1473mm)
- Height 4ft 2in (1270mm)
- Wheelbase 7ft 10in (2388mm)
- Weight 2044lb (927kg)
- 0-60mph 13.3 secs
- Top speed 96mph
- Mpg 30
- Price new £940
- Price now £20-40,000*
*Price correct at date of original publication
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Charlie Calderwood
Charlie Calderwood is Classic & Sports Car’s Features Editor